Friday, July 19, 2019

Post Bloom Peony Care



Post Bloom Peony Care


Many, many thanks to the dozens and dozens of gardeners who stopped by to purchase peonies this spring. We grew +50 varieties and still have a good assortment which can be planted in your gardens any time between now and mid-October. Stop by and discuss availability with Gail. No blooms left of course but Gail has good pictures and descriptions for planning color and garden height. There are two Bartzella left for those who want a very nice yellow. Yellows are more expensive but are not always available at nurseries as a result.
Hollingsworth Peonies in Missouri has been in business for a long time. They most always have peonies you have been looking for. They just posted this piece about post-bloom care which is worth reading. Larger plants and bountiful blooms next year means good care now. Read on. #peonies#bartzella#vtflowerfarm;
"Summer Care of Peonies
Summer! We are now in the later part of the growing season for peonies. Maintaining healthy leaves not only provides for attractive “foliage plants” in your garden, they give structure and dimension to the flower bed and serve as a backdrop for other flowering perennials and annuals. Summer is a critical time during which peonies accumulate food reserves in form of complex sugars (starch) to be used in the fall and early spring to grow new roots, a larger crown and if successful more stems and flowers. Here are some tips to ensure your peony plants will grow and prosper for years to come.
Foliage - Maintain your foliage as long as possible and don't cut it off unless it is badly infected with mildew or has started to turn brown. Some peony varieties actually go dormant early especially the species hybrids. The Itoh hybrids and most lactiflora hybrids maintain their foliage until the end of the growing season. The longer you can maintain healthy foliage the more food the peony plants can store in their roots. The more food stored the better.
Water - During the first year and to some degree also in the second year after planting check your young peonies frequently. Peonies have coarse and thick foliage. The stems are stiff. For the untrained eye it is difficult to observe wilting. Use your fingers to test the soil. Moist soil is usually darker and clings to your skin. Dry soil is grayish in color, dusty and does not cling to the skin of your finger. Observe companion plants and if they wilt your peonies should also get water. When irrigating, water deep, provide an ample amount of moisture that penetrates deeply into the soil. Always irrigate in the morning so the foliage can dry off during the day. Moisture during the night is an invitation for fungal disease such as mildew.
Dead head - Spent flowers and seed pods should be cut off. Many peony varieties are quite fertile and will produce seed. This seed, if allowed to fall to the ground, may sprout. New seedlings will start growing and over time compete with your original peonies. It is not uncommon for open pollinated seedlings to be more vigorous and stronger growers then their parents. We sometimes get Email from people wondering why their pink double flower form peonies are all white (single flower form). That’s the reason why. Most peonies grown from seed are quite different from their parents - often not very attractive.
Mildew - If you have mildew problems get rid of the dead foliage and burn it. If your area does not allow burning put it into the trash. Don't put sick material into the compost since the spores will survive there until next year. All infested material (including any nearby plants) should be removed off-site or burned. It doesn't take a lot of dead leaves for spores to find a winter refuge. If you have a lot of problems contact your Extension Service, they can point out fungicides approved for your state. The Master Gardeners in your area can be a great resource as well. "

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